Two nights ago, Miley Cyrus hosted a particularly eventful VMAs.
She led proceedings, made topical gags, was called out by Nicki Minaj
and performed a new song with a troupe of drag queens. She
also generally used the stage as a platform for herself and the great
causes she's become a powerful mouthpiece for. Throughout the show, as
you'd expect, Miley also had a fair number of quirky outfit changes and,
according to her long time stylist Simone Harouche, was actively
involved in all her looks. She stated, "Miley is completely involved in
the entire aesthetic process, from start to finish." And while her
wardrobe decisions represented just one element of her performance, the
consequent outcry in response to some of those decisions has been
resounding.
While every one of Miley's outfits incorporated
controversial elements, it's the sequined suits with third-eye and mouth
details, that have set the internet alight with debate. Colourful
sequins incorporating faces are a hallmark of Australian label Di$count Universe, who Miley has worked with regularly in the past. Only they didn't make the pieces. They also resembled the work of Romance Was Born,
who crafted a dress with eyes and a mouth in 2008 and looked like they
could have been the work of Jeremy Scott, who Miley has a close
relationship with also. But they didn't make the pieces either. Instead
they were made by Brad Callahan and his label BCalla
and were typical of the flamboyant kind of clothes he makes. Since the
performance, the Di$count designers Cami James and Nadia Napreychikov
have gone so far as to suggest, via their Instagram account, that Miley
had taken their identity stating, "…the one thing you can't TAKE and get
away with is someone's IDENTITY."
Romance Was Born dress from 2008
While we can imagine the shock of seeing someone you've
dressed before wearing something they could, and possibly should, have
asked you to make, declaring identity theft is probably taking it too
far. Miley's support of Di$count Universe has been great for the brand
and provided the kind of exposure most labels dream of. For Miley to
ask BCalla, an American designer who's actively involved in the LGBT
scene, to create outfits for her and her performers makes a lot of
sense. In the flurry of preparation, things need to move forward,
inspiration is gathered and sequins are sewn.
The ensuing war of words
between stylist Simone Harouche and the Di$count Universe designers is
negative and unhelpful. Big corporations ripping off the work of
independent designers is one thing but it's increasingly impossible to
own ideas in these times. Ryan from the label Tome put it well in a Facebook post when he said:
"Everything is borrowed and reinterpreted. Nothing is owned.
The Ancient Italians borrowed from the Ancient Greeks (who in turn
evolved and borrowed from older civilizations) and thus Modern
Civilisation was born. NOTHING IS NEW. Also as we put together our new
SS16 collection at TOME it is very frustrating to know that Phoebe Philo
has done everything before. EVERYTHING! So shut up. Case Closed."
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